BEEN THERE, DONE THAT, GOT THE T SHIRT… AND THE BLESSING OF SERVING

Last week our company got an unexpected invitation. We were informed that Extreme Makeover: Home Edition was in Lincolnton and needed landscape volunteers. For quite a few of us, the answer was a resounding, YES! WE WANT TO PARTICIPATE. Where do we sign up? So the excitement began. We looked up the family and it is an amazing story of giving and sacrifice to say the least. This family has fostered over 30 children over the years. We talked about what shift was best for us, signed up for a time, and discussed how we would meet and get there. The anticipation was building. We checked out the news channel websites all week to follow the progress. Finally, Thursday night arrived and we headed off to our great adventure. As we met, grouped up, and started out we were worried that with this build-up, we might be disappointed. So we were eager to get there and find out what it was like.

While I am not going to get into the detailed descriptions of the build, (you need to watch the episode to get that and I do not want to spoil it), I will describe the adventure. When we arrived, we were met on the road in by Police officers helping us get to where we needed to be. Big bright spotlights filled the perimeter of the parking lot and lit up the evening sky like a big city. From there we had to go and register. This is where the t-shirt comes in. They gave us the official Extreme Makeover: Home Edition t-shirt. That was our ticket in. And as an added bonus, we got real hard hats to wear (although we did have to give that back when we left). Quite honestly we were kind of like kids at Christmas. Once the necessary paperwork was done, and after 2 trips back to the truck to get gloves, etc, we headed in.

You could not see the build site from the road. You had to walk through fenced areas, through neighboring yards and behind fencing and screening to get to the site. Appropriately enough there was a walkway between other houses that ended at a tent we had to walk through to get to the house. You could not see anything until you were past the tent. And there it was. An almost completed house, standing where another had been only Monday. It was dried in, windows in, roof on, siding and brick work completed, rear patio and wall only hours away from completion. It was a sight to behold. We had all looked at the video of the original house being demolished on Monday. Here it is 48 hours later and this new house is near completion.

Once we walked through the back gate, there was another amazing sight, people everywhere, working. Some were working on the patio. Others were working on the landscape. There were people up on the roof working, people inside the house laying tile and doing finishing work. Machines were moving carrying supplies and dirt, gravel, and whatever was needed. Generators running, large light carts everywhere lighting up the area. Carpenters, landscapers, tile installers, electricians, basically any occupation used to build a home was there working. Everybody had a job to do and it had to be done in a matter of hours.

The five of us quickly jumped to it, trying to figure out where to start and where we were needed. We were split into two groups. Some helped install some of the paver patio and walkway, some planted some trees and shrubs, dug bed lines, and did grading. Now we’re at the part that was most impressive to me. Imagine all the different forces working around your home, in a tight area, and crossing over each other for hours. In my case, we were working on the pavers, right next to the group working on the steps going up from the pavers. The spirit of cooperation was tremendous. Our group was leveling, adding base and compacting. Their group was building, sawing, and nailing. We were all on top of each other, yet it all worked. Everyone was working together in the spirit of cooperation. When a fork lift would come and need to lift items up to the second floor, everyone would clear the way. Not to say there aren’t issues with that many different people working in one area. Some work would be completely negated due to large machines plowing through an area you just graded or leveled. But once he finished, everyone went right back in and kept going. With as many volunteers as were there it doesn’t take long to redo or complete a task. It was simply amazing the number of people doing different tasks in a small confined space and yet no one was stepping on others toes.

It was a surprisingly calm environment considering the tight deadlines and the fact that everyone had 6 days to demolish the old house, clean it up, build a new house (an extravagant one mind you) and landscape it. Everybody seemed fairly laid back (while in a hurry) and extremely friendly, courteous, and happy to be there. Leaders would walk up and ask someone to do something, and they immediately did it. This was truly a project huge in magnitude, basically a project that would take months in normal circumstances, that was coming to together in days. The incredible coordination that goes on on-site is truly amazing, let alone the tremendous amounts of coordination that must go on behind the scenes in getting a town ready for such an impact. Our group left about 1:30 Friday morning. We all felt a great sense of accomplishment, knowing that our skill sets and knowledge was needed and helpful.

On the 1 hour ride home, I turned the radio off and thought about what I experienced. It all came down to one issue. People were there to serve. They weren’t there for the money, they weren’t there for the glory or self promotion. They were there to serve. So how does that translate into everyday life? What if… in our everyday jobs, service came first. And I’m not just talking about paying clients. I’m talking about everyone you come into contact with in the course of a day. What if your motive, your goal, was service? What if you approached all you do with the mind set of “how do I serve?” What if in those overwhelming circumstances we all run up against we looked to see how we could “serve” our way through them instead of just trying to get it done? To feel at the end of the day that we had truly served everyone we came into contact with. To have the people we came into contact with walk away feeling “served”. Because of the attitude of service, a very deserving family will be blessed. In the end, WE had the opportunity to serve THEM, because of the way they have been serving others. What a wonderful circle to be stuck in… THE CIRCLE OF SERVING.

This was a once in a life time opportunity we were presented with. It is kind of ironic it happened during the holiday season, but really it doesn’t matter what time of the year it is. The lesson is serve, and then serve more. 

Stephen, Joel, Cid, Albert, and Billy



Cid, Joel, Albert, and Stephen

Maintaining Monkey Grass

It is almost the time of year to trim monkey grasses. Monkey grasses are plants in the lily family that require very little care. Depending on the variety, these work well as a border, accent plant, or as a ground cover to stop erosion or fill in areas quickly. All are easy to maintain. Before we talk about trimming, you might need to know a little more about each variety…

Liriope Muscari

--At AA Tex Lawn, we don't plant the spreading type of liriope (Liriope spicata ) in our garden beds because in full sun, it is an aggressive spreader. Its runners can take over a bed relatively quickly, choking out other small plants around it. These types are excellent in areas where you need a groundcover or are trying to stop soil erosion (such as bare hilly areas). You would not want to plant this type in garden beds with other flowers unless you plan to divide it regularly.

--The clumping types (Liriope muscari), however are a welcome addition to most garden beds. They are attractive and extremely hardy. They handle drought, soggy conditions, sun or shade. They sprout pretty purple blooms in summer.

As I said before, liriope requires very little care. Liriope creates new growth every year, so trimming off the old growth before late spring will ensure the best look for your plants by removing any foliage damaged by the winter cold and keeping the plant compact. Trimming rejuvenates the plant and stimulates new growth. You can trim any time outside the growing season from early winter to early spring. There is some debate over how to do this. Many people worry that you will damage the plant if trimming is not done with pruning shears or clippers. Actually, as long as you are trimming before the new growth begins, using a mower or using a weed eater to trim these will not damage the plant at all. If using a mower, set your blade height to 3 inches and mow just like you would turf grasses. If using a weed eater, trim at about the same height.

This method is much faster and more efficient than using clippers. In early summer, your liriope will fill out again to become a beautiful addition to your landscape!

Thanks,
The AA Tex Lawn Team

Thanksgiving Wisdoms...

As we celebrate the Thanksgiving holiday, we wanted to take the time to share a few quotations.  Hope you enjoy:

• Give thanks for unknown blessings already on their way. ~Native American Saying
•  Not what we say about our blessings, but how we use them, is the true measure of our thanksgiving. ~W.T. Purkiser
• Let us remember that, as much has been given us, much will be expected from us, and that true homage comes from the heart as well as from the lips, and shows itself in deeds. ~Theodore Roosevelt
• He who thanks but with the lips
  Thanks but in part;
  The full, the true Thanksgiving
  Comes from the heart.~J.A. Shedd
• The unthankful heart... discovers no mercies; but let the thankful heart sweep through the day and, as the magnet finds the iron, so it will find, in every hour, some heavenly blessings! ~Henry Ward Beecher

And last but not least...

 

May your stuffing be tasty

May your turkey plump,

May your potatoes and gravy

Have nary a lump.

May your yams be delicious

And your pies take the prize,

And may your Thanksgiving dinner

Stay off your thighs!

~Author Unknown

 

Happy Thanksgiving!

The AA Tex Lawn Team

 

Jack Frost is coming… Is your irrigation system ready?

The winter cold can wreak havoc on irrigation systems. Water remaining in your system can freeze, expand, and crack the piping or damage the backflow assembly. A particular concern for the relatively mild winters in the Charlotte, NC area is the backflow assembly as it sits above ground and is more subject to freeze than the pipes buried below ground. Replacing or repairing a backflow that has broken due to frozen water can be an expensive endeavor at the spring system startup.

If you have a sprinkler system at your home, protect your investment by winterizing your system before the first frost. To winterize, drain any remaining water out of the system and empty the backflow. You'll want to get this done prior to the cold weather (usually, by the first week of December).  

An irrigation system can definitely increase the curb appeal as well as the value of your property. But it's an investment that you need to protect. Every system is different. If you'd like to have professional help with the winterization process, just give us a call at 704-821-0708 or visit our website at http://www.aatexlawn.com/.


Thanks,


The AA Tex Lawn Team

Solu-Cal: Right for your Lawn

    The difference between having a lawn that struggles to survive and one that thrives can be the soil. For your turf to flourish, you must start with the right soil composition. Because we have such heavy, clay soils in the piedmont of North Carolina, getting the right growing environment usually involves amending the soil to make it less acidic. To put it simply, acid locks up the nutrients in the soil. Neutralizing the soil PH unlocks the nutrients so that you can more effectively use what is already in the soil, as well as get the most out of any fertilization that you do in the future.

    At AA Tex Lawn, we've moved from the standard lime that we used in the past to neutralize the ph in the soil to a product called Solu-Cal. It's a water soluble calcium that works faster and more effectively than lime. Some of the benefits are:

• Solu-Cal is 4 times more effective than regular lime. If using a ton of lime per acre, you can use 500 pounds of Solu-Cal to do the same job.
• Solu-Cal works faster. Lime takes as long as 6 months to move through the soil, whereas Solu-Cal works in 6 to 8 weeks.

We don't mean to sound like a commercial for Solu-cal, but it's a product we believe in. We have included the application of Solu-cal as part of our annual 7 Step program because if you don't have the right base, you're not going to get the best results. For more information on soil PH and why it's important, see our blog at http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2011/06/why-is-soil-ph-important.html or feel free to call our office. We're happy to help.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Bulbs: Spring Beauties that Require Fall Planning

It seems strange to be thinking about spring when we are just getting over the heat of summer. But in our gardens like everything else in life, a little planning can go a long way. One thing I love about the spring is seeing those first flushes of color from tulips, hyacinths, crocus' and daffodils. If you want to experience that wonderful sight in your own landscape, now is the time to prepare.

The optimal time to plant bulbs is when soil temperatures reach around 55 degrees Fahrenheit. For those of us who aren't in the habit of sticking a thermometer in the soil to determine temperature, for the Charlotte area, that is usually in the late October/early November timeframe when the average night temperatures drop to around 50 degrees for a sustained period of 2 weeks or so.) If you're planting in a prepped flower bed, pocket planting is as simple as digging a small hole and inserting the bulb to the CORRECT DEPTH. Notice that correct depth is in capitals. It's important. Not planting your bulbs deep enough can cause your flowers to bloom too early. Planting the bulbs too deep may prevent them from coming up at all. The bulbs you buy should have planting instructions on the package. Just follow the directions. If you want to plant bulbs in an area where the soil hasn't been prepped, your bulbs may grow, but it's not ideal. You may want to follow the bed prep tips at: http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2011/05/planting-annual-flower-beds.html

Things to remember:

• Fertilize at installation.
• Water at installation but after that, the bulbs really take care of themselves barring any extreme rain conditions.
• As I mentioned before, depth is important. Follow the planting instructions or ask your nursery.
• Plant bulbs at the back of winter pansy and viola beds to provide height in the spring.



Hyacinths



When we plant bulbs for our clients, we treat them as annual flowers. We pull them before we till the soil to prep it for the summer annual flower installation. Although some varieties are perennial, in a commercial environment, it's hard to guarantee the same results year after year. When planting at your home, though, if the variety you choose is a perennial you'll want to deadhead the flowers (you can just take scissors or hand pruners and remove the flower organs after flower petals fade or fall off) but need to leave the foliage until it turns brown or 6 weeks after blooming – so that the bulb gets the nutrients it needs for the next growing season. For that reason, you may want to overplant with summer annuals in the spring to camouflage the foliage of your bulbs as the leaves start to turn brown.

Daffodils in pansy bed

 

 

 

 

As to what to plant, there are a lot of different choices. When we plant tulips for our clients, we like to use varieties that bloom at different times (some will bloom earlier in the spring, whereas other varieties flower later in the spring.) Since these wonderful flowers can be short-lived, planting different varieties will allow you to enjoy the blooms for longer.

 



Tulips in pansy bed



With all the choices available, you can really give yourself a beautiful spring landscape. What a way to welcome the warmer weather! But as we enjoy the fall showing, it's the time to think ahead to give yourself a beautiful spring treat. We love bulbs. Let us know if we can help.

 

Thanks,

 

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Tree Banding Grants Available

In the Charlotte metro area, most of us have heard of cankerworms. If not, you've probably wondered what those black wraps are around the trees heading up Providence Road. This pest feeds on deciduous trees. In our area, the population of cankerworms is growing. According to Charlotte Mecklenburg's website, last year, more than 73,000 acres in Charlotte were infested with cankerworms (more than 40%). The City did a preventative aerial spraying in 2008 and recommends banding trees in the fall to keep the cankerworm population down. Banding prevents the female cankerworm from climbing the tree, thereby preventing her from laying eggs on the branches. The hatchling caterpillars feed on the leaves and can defoliate a large tree.

The good news is that the efforts seem to be working. Previously as many as 3000 female cankerworms could be found on a single willow oak in the Charlotte area and now those numbers average less than 100. As an incentive to support tree banding, the city of Charlotte is offering neighborhood matching grants to communities in locations identified as within or adjacent to the Cankerworm Infestation Area to assist with the cost of banding trees. This includes trees located on private property. Charlotte has recognized that "it takes a village" to make an impact on cankerworms.

For more information on these grants, see the Charlotte Mecklenburg website at: http://www.charmeck.org/city/charlotte/nbs/communitycommerce/Pages/TreeBanding.aspx
For more information on the importance of tree banding, see our blog at: http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2010/11/protecting-city-of-trees-canker-worms.html

We'll be sending out tree banding proposals to our clients soon. With the possibility of a matching grant from the city of Charlotte, there is more incentive than ever to add this service. Applications for a Neighborhood Matching Grant need to be submitted by October 21^st, so time is of the essence. Let us know if we can help.

Thanks,
The AA Tex Lawn Team

Drab Winter? Not if you add cool season annuals to your landscape!

 As the heat of summer winds down, it doesn't mean that we have to resign ourselves to drab landscapes during the winter months. The begonias, impatiens, and other summer annuals have done their job, but they can't handle winter's cold. So now it's time for a change.

There are beautiful annual flowers that do very well in our mild winters here in the south. Some that we particularly like are violas and pansies. Kales and cabbages can also be added as accents for texture in your beds. You can use snapdragons for height. Here are a few pictures to give you an idea of what's available:


Sorbet Purple Duet Violas

 

Penny Citrus Mix Violas


 

Monet Mix Pansy



Blueberry Thrill Pansy



Penny White Violas



Red Russian Kale

 

Winterboor Kale



Snapdragons


With the multitude of varieties available, you can really give yourself a nice winter look. In the fall beds we prepare for our clients, we rely on violas and pansies as our mainstays because of their hardiness. With hundreds of varieties available, the possibilities are endless. This is just a sampling of the cool season flowers that are available in our area. Check your local greenhouses for availability. For more information on the services we offer, give us a call at 704-821-0708. We're happy to help.

We do recommend that you apply a systemic fungicide and systemic insecticide at planting. You also will want to fertilize multiple times during the growing season for maximum blooms. We use an organic fertilizer and a granular type at installation. Then we also add a liquid bloom producing fertilizer similar to the type you find at your home improvement stores. For more tips on bed prep, check out: http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2010/11/add-color-to-your-landscape-during.html

As an added note, it is almost time to plant bulbs for that burst of early spring color! Depending on weather, bulbs can be planted in the October/November timeframe when the soil temperatures start to fall. Who doesn't love to welcome spring with beautiful tulips, lilies, and crocuses!


Happy Planting,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Composting: A good use of our resources and a rockin’ bon-fire

At AA Tex Lawn, we try to be good stewards with our resources. We look for ways we can keep our operating costs down, as well as help our planet. One way we do this is by contracting with a local tree company to recycle our landscape waste in mulch and compost. Not only does this keep the tree branches, dirt, leaves, etc from going to the landfill, but turns this waste material into something usable. The tub grinder is an impressive piece of equipment. Check out the video of the tub grinder at work on our pile of debris:

After a couple of months this compost is a rich soil amendment or mulch to put in plant beds. Here's how composting works:

Composting is a way to speed up the decomposition (or break down) of organic matter. By putting carbon rich materials like fallen leaves, wood chips and straw in a pile with nitrogen rich materials like fresh grass clippings and vegetable and plant waste, you create a mix of materials that bacteria and other microorganisms will feed upon. These organisms break down these materials into rich mulching and soil amendments much quicker than they would decompose naturally. The process creates heat which also helps with the break-down process (and also kills any weed seeds that may be left from the grass clippings).

Composting needs several things to work efficiently. You need the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen. The materials you put in the compost pile need to be small to provide more surface area to help the material break down quicker. Because of the energy produced by the microorganisms, the compost pile needs to be turned and watered frequently to keep the heat from building up. Watering also facilitates the break-down process.

A compost pile can spontaneously combust when materials self heat to a temperature high enough to cause them to ignite. As strange as this sounds, we actually had this happen to our pile this summer. There is nothing like walking out to a huge smoking mound of (what looks like) dirt! This is not something that usually affects a home compost pile as they are smaller, allowing more airflow with less dry pockets in the pile. Spontaneous combustion is more prevalent in larger piles that are not turned often. We turn ours every 1 to 2 months now. To be safe, if you are thinking of starting a compost bin at your house, locate it away from buildings and flammable structures. (It will also help control critters that are attracted to the organic material.) Be sure to turn it periodically to accelerate the decomposition process and let air into the pile. Also water it to encourage break down.

In a relatively short time, your compost will be ready to use and great for your soil! Although the grinding process is not cheap, we're excited to have this organic material to add to our plant beds and sell at our facility. And we get the added bonus of knowing we're doing something good for our Earth.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Aeration and Seeding… Is it necessary?

Fescue turf has taken a beating this summer between the heat and weeds.  Fall brings a respite to the stressed turf.  However it takes more than cooler weather to get your fescue back in prime condition and to give it back that lush look we all want and love in our lawns.  Aeration and overseeding is a process that alleviates soil compaction and replaces turf lost in summer.  With the hot recent weather in the Charlotte area, it is almost a requirement if you want to get the best look for your fescue.   

Aeration is the loosening of the soil to allow the essential elements (air, water, and nutrients) to better penetrate our heavy clay soils.  It can be done with a core aerator (a machine that pulls plugs of dirt out of the soil) or an aerovator which is a tractor mounted machine that shakes and shatters the top 3 to 4 inches of soil.  Both are effective, but where the landscape allows, we prefer to use the aerovator as the plugs left by the core aerator will be messy and shaking the soil provides a more uniform loosening effect than plugs.  In areas that are too small to maneuver the tractor for the aerovator, we use the smaller core aerator.  Either device will relieve the soil compaction, which with our hard, clay soil is essential for good seed germination.  

Aerovator and Aerator

Overseeding replaces the turf that could not survive the heat of summer.  Fescue is not a spreading grass, so overseeding fills in any bare areas left when crabgrass dies out.  Timing is important.  Typically, we try to aerate and seed in the September/October timeframe.  Doing it earlier as opposed to later gives you the opportunity to touch-up any areas that may not germinate due to a variety of factors.  

Seed and technique matter.  If you are going to tackle this yourself, make sure you are using good, quality seed and take your time to get adequate coverage with the aerator and spreader.  Be careful not to put down too much seed.  Optimally, you want the seed to be about 1 to 1.5 inches apart because as fescue matures, each seedling will form a plant about the size of your fist.  So putting too much seed in one area hinders root growth because too many plants are competing for the same nutrients.  Eventually they will choke each other out.

What can you do to help the process along? 

Before aeration and overseeding:

• Mow:  Mow your lawn at 2 inches tall to allow good seed to soil contact when overseeding.
  
• Irrigation:  If you have sprinkler heads, it is important that you mark your sprinkler heads with flags to avoid any damage by heavy aerators and aerovators.We want to prevent damage to your property as well as complete the job as quickly and efficiently as possible.
  
• Water:  A good watering the night before can make sure the soil is soft for aeration.  Better plugs allow more chance for your seed to grow.
  

After aeration and overseeding:

• Water: Once the lawn has been aerated and seeded it is vital that your lawn receives daily watering to ensure the best germination possible.  The best rule of thumb is to keep soil moist for two weeks after seeding.  Allow the seed to dry out between waterings as overwatering can decrease germination results also.
  
• Mow:  Once seeded, you want to give the young seedlings time to take hold before mowing.  We try to hold off mowing until the seedlings are at least 2 inches tall (typically 10 - 21 days.)  Mowing too soon can pull up the tender shoots.
  
• Traffic:  With newly seeded lawns, you want to avoid stepping on them as much as possible until they are established.  I know that with kids and dogs this is more difficult, but the more undisturbed time you can give the new seed to grow, the better the germination will be.
  

Weeds:  Aeration loosens the soil to allow grass to grow.  By optimizing the soil for seed growth, you also provide a good environment for weeds to grow.  However, herbicides can kill new grass.  We concentrate on getting good germination and improving the density of your fescue.  (As we've said before, the best defense against weeds is dense, healthy turf.)  It is best to wait 6-8 weeks after seeding to spray for weeds.

Just to be clear, this article applies to fescue turfs. If you have a bermudagrass lawn, aeration and seeding typically takes place in the spring before the bermudagrass growing season starts. Hopefully these tips will help you make the most out of your lawn this fall. As always, visit our website or give us a call if AA Tex Lawn can be of any help to you with this process.


Thanks,


The AA Tex Lawn Team

After the Storm… Storm Cleanup

If you live in the Matthews area, you were probably blown away (no pun intended) by the storms in the last couple of weeks. My neighborhood had several large trees felled, lost power for hours, lost our large pool umbrella, and the pool itself had more debris than at the beginning of the summer season. It's always amazing when Mother Nature reminds us who's really in charge. Just like the 3 little pigs, we hope we've built a house to protect us from the unexpected wolves (or storms) that come blowing at our door. Our landscapes on the other hand can take a beating. Rain and wind can fell trees, uproot shrubbery, sweep away mulch, and generally wreak havoc in our yards and communities.

Safety is paramount when you begin the clean-up after these storms. Here are some basic tips to keep in mind:

1. Protective gear: When working with chain saws or disposing of debris, it is best to wear eye protection, work gloves, heavy boots, chaps, and a long sleeved shirt to prevent injury from branches and equipment
   
2. Know your surroundings: Felled trees can land on or near power lines, electrical boxes or other electrical equipment. To avoid risks of shock, if you are working near a downed power line, contact the utility company first to make sure the area is grounded before proceeding. If you are worried about electricity in an area of your house, make sure you either turn off the power at the main breaker or the fuse at the breaker panel.
   
3. Read the directions for your equipment: If working with a chain saw or other equipment, follow all manufacturer instructions. We could write a whole blog on chainsaw safety, but to keep it simple, the instructions come with the equipment for a reason. READ THEM.
   
4. Structures that have been flooded can become unstable. Avoid risks by checking the stability of structures before working on or near them.
   
5. Avoid "Bounce-back": When working with trees or branches that have been bent or caught up under something during wind storms, make sure you know the spring tension for the branch. Branches that spring back can do so with enough force to cause injury to you or a bystander. If you think tension may be an issue, slowly shave the underside of the branch, rather than cutting through it to release tension slowly.
   
6. When in doubt, call a professional.
   

If you'd like our help in cleaning up after these most recent summer storms, let us know. AA Tex Lawn has the manpower and know-how to help. You can call our office at 704-849-9084 or visit our website for more information.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Defeating the Armyworm

Caterpillars!  Watching them develop into moths and butterflies can be fascinating.  In small numbers they are harmless.  Large numbers feeding on your turf can damage your lawn.  Armyworms feed on the leaves of the grass. In large infestations, they can eat the turf down to the soil. While typically bermudagrass can recover, cool season grasses can receive permanent damage from these attacks.

Armyworms are the larvae caterpillar stage of a light brownish gray moth.  Their name comes from their feeding habits.  They move in groups, consuming all the grass in one area before moving to the next location.  Fall armyworms are not a constant issue in our area, but when they do attack, it can be devastating to a lawn. They are most commonly associated with late summer or fall damage to bermudagrasses, but also feed on fescue, ryegrasses, bentgrasses, bluegrass, and other turfs.



lawn damage from an armyworm infestation

 Since typically these caterpillars feed at night, it can be difficult to explain the brown patches in your bermudagrass at first. There are a few tell-tale signs of armyworms, though. If you have flocks of birds feeding in your turf, you must have something that they are feeding on and this can be an early sign of armyworms. To determine if you have them, inspect the grass for the caterpillars. If you find more than 1 per square foot, you may need to treat for them. In addition, you can do a soap flush to bring the larvae to the surface to make identification easier.

Treatment for the pests is usually effective. A sprayable lawn insecticide can be applied to kill them. Treat in late afternoon when the caterpillars are more likely to be feeding. It’s best to mow before you spray. Then hold off on mowing or irrigating for several days afterward to allow the insecticide to work.

If you think you have an issue with armyworms, give us a call and we can come out and evaluate your lawn and set up a treatment plan for you. As long as you stay on top of the problem you can avoid any cataclysmic results.

Thanks,
The AA Tex Lawn Team

Battling Bermudagrass

Bermudagrass… you either love it or hate it, depending on what type of turf you are cultivating. While it has many positive attributes, if you are trying to grow a cool season lawn like fescue, bermudagrass can become a very invasive weed. Since Bermudagrass is a warm season turf that grows naturally in the soil in this area, it thrives in the summer months when fescue is typically struggling due to the heat. Because it grows on rhizomes and stolons, it runs like a vine straight into your garden beds or through your fescue turf. It can wiggle its way under stones and barriers.

Now (in the late summer months) is the time to think about getting rid of it. If left untreated, bermudagrass will fill in areas where the fescue has failed due to summer heat stress. While this is not as noticeable in the summer months, when the fall hits and the bermudagrass goes dormant, you are left with unsightly brown patches in your cool season lawn. By getting rid of the bermudagrass, you create more seed to soil contact when you overseed in the fall. This will allow better germination of the seed, thereby creating a nice, uniform look for your turf.

How do you go about removing it? It's not easy.  We strongly recommend having the bermudagrass patches sprayed with a non-selective herbicide at least twice.  The second spray should take place a couple of weeks after the first to get any stubborn stragglers as it is hardy and hard to kill. Spraying a second time will increase your chances of getting it all. However, you want to be sure to spray only the affected areas as a non-selective herbicide like Round-up will also kill the desired turf. Once the bermuda is dead, it needs to be removed so that the soil is showing. This way when you overseed, there is no thatch to hinder seed germination. At AA Tex Lawn, we do this in different ways depending on the landscape:  we either scalp the affected area with a mower, rake out the dead bermuda, or de-thatch it.

Taking these steps does not mean you will never have to deal with bermudagrass again. The purpose is to help increase your fescue density, which in return decreases the likelihood of bermuda returning. As we've said before, the best defense against weeds is thick, healthy turf! 

If you take on this process yourself, be prepared for a battle.  We're happy to help.  If you’d like more information  or our rates, contact our office at 704-821-0708. Treatments will be done in late July/early August and then again two to three weeks later.  Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Playground Mulch: How Safe Are Your Children?

When you are young, imagination is a wonderful thing.  Slides aren’t simply slides, they are mountains to be scaled or to rappel; swings are not just swings, they are planes that fly you to the sky so that you can parachute down to earth.  Even the parents of the tamest kids will eventually find them scaling the outside of the playground equipment.  It’s inevitable.   But as the mind dreams up these wonderful adventures, sometimes the body is unable to carry them out and pays the price.  So as parents, what can we do to keep our kids safe on their playground adventures?

The Blue Max website says that on average, more than 200,000 children are treated in US Emergency Rooms for playground injuries.  Don’t get me wrong.  I’m not saying we should stop kids from playing.  With childhood obesity rates on the rise in the United States, it is more important than ever to get our kids outside and away from “screen time”.  However something as simple as mulch can do much to help prevent and reduce injuries incurred from falls from playground equipment.

While most public parks and playgrounds have equipment installed over some sort of mulch, the majority of residential backyard playgrounds are installed over grass and dirt.  There are a variety of playground surface options available.  Anything from sand to mulch to rubber products all provide some level of protection from critical falls.  We recommend and install Tumblesafe Playground Mulch.  This is an engineered wood fiber that is 100% natural.  It is cut at an angle to prevent sharp points and helps absorb the impact from a fall from playground equipment.  We feel it is the best value for the money.  It meets and exceeds the head impact criteria set forth by the Consumer Product Safety Commission and is the product that state regulated daycares use.

While Tumblesafe Playground Mulch holds up well, any type of mulch can become a casualty of spring and summer storms.  If you have already installed mulch under your backyard playground, make sure the wind and rain we’ve had recently have not washed it away.  We recommend a minimum of 4-6 inches installed.  If you have not installed mulch, it is something you should consider.  My neighborhood has already seen two broken bones from playground accidents this season.  Here’s to an imaginative, but safe summer.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

July is Proclaimed Smart Irrigation Month for NC

For the second consecutive year, Governor Beverly Perdue has officially proclaimed July as "Smart Irrigation Month" for North Carolina. Water is a precious resource. With the ever-growing population and the droughts of recent years, it is even more important to make sure we are conserving where we can and getting the most of the water we are using. Here are a couple of tips to help with that:

Water at the Right Time – ideally, you will water your lawn during the hours that the lawn is wet from dew. As it is cooler, it will minimize evaporation.

Don't Overwater – different plants have different needs. One size does not fit all when it comes to irrigation. Here are some stats from savingwaternc.com: On average:

• small shrubs need 5 gallons water/week
• large shrubs need 10 gallons/week
• trees need 2 gallons per inch diameter (measured at 4.5' above the ground)/week
• flower beds need 5 gallons of water/10 sq. ft. (1 minute of water at medium pressure)
• lawns require about 1/2-1" water per week, depending on the grass type. High-use turf areas may need more frequent irrigation.

Install a Rain Sensor – there is nothing more inefficient than a sprinkler system running in the rain. Besides manually controlling your irrigation system timing, (and who wants to schlep out in the rain to do that?) what can you do to stop your sprinklers from coming on during or after rain? Install a rain sensor. It monitors rainfall and turns your system off when Mother Nature has provided enough precipitation. There are other "smart" controller options that take into account plant requirements and local weather. We can help you know your options.

Hand Watering – Drip systems use 50% less water than a typical sprinkler in addition to applying water directly to the root zone where it is needed. If drip irrigation is not available, use a water breaker (the attachment for your hose that acts like a shower head) on the end of your hose to deliver an even, gentle flow to the base of the plants. It's interesting to note that a typical garden hose delivers 5 gallons of water per minute. You can also use a 5-gallon bucket with small holes in the bottom to slowly water your beds and prevent run-off.

Think Ahead when Planning your Landscaping – Group plants with similar water and soil needs. Then you can use drip irrigation or zoned irrigation to most efficiently water your plants. The use of native plants, trees, and shrubs helps, too. Since these plants occur naturally in our area, they are adapted to local conditions including climate, soil, and rainfall.

Audit Your Irrigation System – Have your system audited by an irrigation tech to check for leaks, adjust the heads, and make any necessary repairs. (Make sure you're not watering the pavement!)

Even with our summer storms, most of our state has had below average rainfall this summer. If you use water-wise habits, you'll have a healthier landscape, conserve water, and reduce your water bill. Let's make every month Smart Irrigation Month! For more information on this topic, check out http://www.savingwaternc.com

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Why is Soil PH Important?

Remember those high school chemistry classes? We learned about acids, bases, and PH, elements and the periodic table. Did you ever think you'd need to know those things to take care of your grass? The health of your grass depends greatly on the components in your soil. For all grass types, a soil test should be done at least every two to three years to determine the amounts of lime, phosphorus, and potassium needed by your established lawn. This is called a PH test. Soil PH determines how efficiently your lawn will be able to absorb and use the nutrients it receives. In short, if you want healthy, lush turf, adjusting the PH is vital.

To perform this test, soil samples are taken and sent to Cooperative Extension offices. They analyze the elements in the soil to determine any nutrient deficits and the acidity of the soil so that we can more accurately tell the amount of fertilizer, lime, or other elements needed to keep your grass healthy.

Typically, North Carolina soils are found to be quite acidic because our warm, humid weather causes calcium, potassium, and magnesium to be leached from the soil. That leaves an overabundance of hydrogen and aluminum, two very acidic elements. If your soil is too acidic, it can be toxic to plants. At AA Tex Lawn, we use a product called Solu-cal which is a water-soluble calcium to neutralize the acidity of the soil. It corrects the soil PH better and faster than the lime we used in the past.

There is science behind grass. You don't need to be a chemist to grow grass, but understanding your soil is the first step in getting the lush green turf we'd all love to have. For more info on adding Solu-cal to your turf, please give us a call.

Thanks,
The AA Tex Lawn Team

Fescue Battles the Heat

The Carolinas are a great place to live. We live in a transition zone that can support both warm and cool season grasses. While warm season grasses grow best in the summer, cool season grasses like fescue maintain a green color throughout the winter. The summer months can be tricky for fescue turf. Heat stress is one of our hardest battles we face with this turf type.

Fescue turf has an optimum growth temperature between 60 to 75 degrees. The hot temperatures of summer can cause heat stress. This is why the beautiful fescue lawn that you see in late winter/early spring may start to look spotty in summer. In fact, when temperatures reach 90 degrees and above, fescue will go dormant (meaning the grass stops growing to conserve energy until better conditions arrive). All this is completely normal for cool season turfgrasses. It is just too hot for them to grow optimally in the summer months in the south.

The problem comes with continually high temperatures. Eventually, the string of 90 plus degree weather with no break can cause roots to die back, resulting in a loss of large amounts of turf. We've already had over 20 days of weather topping out over 90 degrees this spring/summer. And it's not even July yet! What can you do to help your fescue turf fight heat stress?

 

• First of all, the deeper and more established your roots are the longer your fescue can take the heat. Disease or insect infestation can damage root health, making your lawn more susceptible to heat stress. There are preventative sprays you can put on your lawn to guard against these types of issues. Soil tests are also useful to identify problems with the soil that may be hindering root growth.
  
• At AA Tex Lawn, we mow fescue above 3 3/4 inches in the summer to help reduce stress. We want to avoid breaking the grass blade off at the ground, which could damage the plant.
  
• Because of the hot weather we've had this year, we have moved many of our clients to a 10 day mowing schedule. This is a way to keep from overtaxing the grass that is already close to dormancy by the heat. Stressed turf does not respond well to foot or mower traffic.
  
• A deep long watering can help delay heat stress, but essentially this is a temperature issue, not a water issue. With continued extreme temperatures, watering and irrigation will not overcome the excessive heat.
  

  
   

Remember, dormancy is normal for fescue turf. It is a survival tactic cool season turfs use to get through hot weather until prime growing conditions return. Our job as landscapers is to do what we can to help the dormant fescue recover quickly when temperatures lower. The goal is to avoid injuring the roots so that as much turf will recover as possible when the cooler weather returns in the fall. Barring any radical temperature shifts in the fall, fertilization and overseeding should help re-populate areas that are bare because of heat stress. Mother Nature likes to throw us curve-balls. Our job is to do preventative maintenance by making your lawn as healthy as it can be and fight the battle against the weather. If your lawn is a battlefield, together we'll win the war!