Myths II: Planting Myths Busted!

In the last blog we talked about common turf myths we hear from customers and why they are false. Fallacies grow in all shapes and sizes. There is an abundance of plant, shrub, and tree myths that exist too. Here are a few and why they are wrong.

One of our most hated: CRAPE MURDER! You see it everywhere… Crape Myrtles that look like a

Crape Murder

deranged serial killer has hacked off their heads. There are several reasons why this is not good for the tree… It forces a mass of thinner branches at the top which makes the crape myrtle look disproportionate. These thinner branches often droop with their heavy blooms. This also stresses the tree which leads to a greater chance of disease and insect damage. MYTH: Pruning the top will promote more blooms. This is not true. At AA Tex Lawn, when pruning these beautiful trees, we leave 3 to 4 large trunks, cut off any suckers that have grown near the base of the trunk, and cut off any cross branches that are rubbing against other branches. The tops we leave alone… yielding a glorious tree with a profusion of blooms in the summer. If the crape myrtle is too large for the space it is in, it needs to be replaced with plant material that "fits" in the spot.

Proper Technique for Pruning Crape Myrtles

I'VE GOT TO GET RID OF THIS CLAY SOIL WHEN I DO MY PLANTINGS IF I WANT MY PLANTS TO GROW. I see where this idea comes from. Clay tends to become compacted which makes it hard for vital nutrients (oxygen and water) to enter the soil. But actually, it's better to amend the native soil (mainly clay in our area) rather than remove it. The clay retains moisture, so by amending the soil, you retain the positive properties of the clay and reduce the negative, mainly compaction. Look to use about a 50/50 ratio of the native soil and enriched organic matter like the soil conditioner you find in your local garden centers or really good composting material. The roots will grow in clay. The amended soil simply helps water and nutrients pass into the soil to the roots.

WILL I HAVE TO WATER MY NEW SHRUBS FOREVER???? For the first couple of years, regular watering is essential to helping to reduce transplant stress and establish a healthy root system. As with turf, deep and infrequent watering is better than frequent, shallow watering. The roots grow where the water is, so if you do a shallow watering, then the roots will be shallow as well. Different shrubs have different needs, so check the directions for your variety of shrub to ensure you are giving enough water. TOO MUCH WATER CAN BE AS DETRIMENTAL AS NOT WATERING ENOUGH. However, established shrubbery typically does not need supplemental watering. So after the first couple of years, unless we're under drought conditions, the shrubs will get all the water they need from Mother Nature, so we can stop watering.

Which brings us to another common issue:

WATERING SHOULD BE LIKE A GENTLE RAINFALL SO THAT THE LEAVES CAN SOAK UP THE WATER… It's actually better to water the root area rather than the leaves. Although the leaves can take up a small amount of water, the majority of nutrients and water are absorbed through the roots. No need for a "gentle rainfall" approach.

A little education to help you beautify your world. Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team