Turf Tips for the Charlotte Area

As summer draws to a close, it's time to consider what needs to be done to keep your grass looking its best. Curb appeal is so important in the look of a house and community. Along those lines, here are a few tips to keep your turf in tip-top condition:

1. When is the best time to renovate my lawn?Late summer to early fall is the best time to renovate cool-season lawns. Warm-season lawns are best renovated in late spring to early summer. Attempts to upgrade existing lawns when conditions are not conducive to good growth are difficult at best.
2. Why does my lawn start out looking great, but by the middle of summer, seems to look spotty?During the summer, when temperatures reach over 90 degrees, fescue starts to go dormant and stress. This is a defense mechanism and is to be expected with cool season turf in our area. Its optimal growing season is September to May.
3. What does aeration do?Your soil needs to breathe. We aerate the soil to relieve compaction and to allow all three of the important elements to get to the root zone: water, nutrients, and air.
4. Should I over-seed at the same time as I aerate?They are both fall activities for fescue, independent of each other. We try to do them around the same time because the aeration increases the soil's water holding capabilities to ensure proper germination.
   
   
5. Should I overseed every year?
   Yes and No. Thin areas should be over-seeded every year. Lush, healthy areas benefit from aeration and fertilization only.
   
   
6. What is the difference between aeration and aerovation?A core aerator is a machine that pulls plugs of dirt out of the soil. An aerovator is a tractor mounted machine that shakes and shatters the top 3 to 4 inches of soil.  Both are effective, but where the landscape allows, we prefer to use the aerovator as the plugs left by the core aerator will be messy and shaking the soil provides a more uniform loosening effect than plugs.  Because the aerovator is tractor mounted, it is limited to large, open areas as you need room to maneuver the tractor. For smaller areas or fenced areas, we use the smaller core aerator.  Either device will relieve the soil compaction, which with our hard, clay soil is essential for good seed germination.
   
   
7. Does soil PH matter?
   Yes. Soil PH is a tremendous factor for the health of your turf. The soil in the Carolina piedmont region is naturally acidic. It is too acidic to grow healthy turf. Acidic soil inhibits the uptake of nutrients and nutrients will go unused. (i.e. You are not getting the most out of your fertilizer application.)
   
   
8. Do water restrictions affect aeration?
   No. The heavy soil of the Carolina piedmont region needs to have the compaction relieved after every hot, punishing summer season. In our area, we've had sufficient rainfall this summer, so not many counties are under restrictions. Union County has a restricted irrigation schedule for 2012, though. You can find it online at: http://www.co.union.nc.us/Portals/0/PublicWorks/Documents/WaterConservation/Irrigation%20Schedule%20by%20Subdiv%20Eff%2001%2029%202009.pdf
   
   
9. When should I water?Ideally, you will water your lawn during the hours that the lawn is wet from dew. Having your turf wet for more than 12 hours in a 24 hour period during the hot summer months will increase the likelihood of disease.
   
   
10. What about weeds?
    Turf weeds are usually broken down into two distinct groups: "broadleaf" and "grassy weeds".

• Grassy weeds are grasses other than the desired cultivore. Examples would be: crabgrass, nutsedge, goose grass, and dallisgrass to name a few in our area. These take specially tailored programs usually carried out in the summer months.
  
  
• Broadleaf weeds are not grasses. They are usually winter annuals and summer perennial weeds. Examples are: dandelions, henbit, clover, and chickweed. These are controlled during our late winter and spring turf applications.
  

With a little love and attention, you can keep your turf lush and green.

 Thanks,
The AA Tex Lawn Team

Help Your New Trees and Shrubs Beat the Heat

I think most of us understand that we should be watering newly planted trees and shrubs in this heat… When talking to our tree experts, though, I was surprised to hear what they defined as "newly planted". Trees and shrubs that were planted in the last 2 years really need supplemental water to avoid decline in these continued high temperatures. That's right. It takes 2 growing seasons before most trees and shrubs are considered established. So how much is enough?

There are equations that tell us exactly how much water you need to replace what is lost through the leaves of the plant on a hot, windy day.

• Multiply inches of evapotranspiration (you can get this from the weather service) by the square footage inside the drip line of your tree. Then multiply that by 0.62 (gallons in an inch of water) to estimate the gallons of water used by the plant. evapotranspiration x sq ft x 0.62 = water loss per day

I know what most of you are thinking…. "Huh?"  Don't worry.  You don't need to get your calculator out every day.  Just keep this in mind:

Basically, you want to insure that you are watering to the bottom of the root ball without overwatering. If you insert a metal rod into the soil ball and are unable to push it more than a couple of inches, you need to water more. Water slower, for a longer period to reach those deeper roots and to allow the water to soak into the soil/root ball instead of just running off around it. With this method, you should be able to water every 10 to 14 days. Just keep in mind, even if you have drip irrigation set up, it may not be enough with the extreme temperatures we've had recently in the Charlotte area.  (12 days of over 100 degree temperatures!)

So keep up the watering. The first couple of growing season are CRUCIAL for the health of the plant.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Pruning, the Scary Truth about Rejuvenation

It happens slowly over time… Shrubs sneak, creep, and skulk until they've consumed an area of the yard. You look out to notice the small shrub that you planted 5 years ago has become a behemoth that is threatening to take over your lawn or keep you from getting to your front door! But maintain hope! Short of battling the goliath with a chainsaw and a metal chain to rip it out by the roots, there is an easier solution. A severe pruning or shrub rejuvenation could be the answer…

Here are some pictures of a successful shrub rejuvenation that was done at our office. These steeds hollies that we inherited outside our office had grown too big for the space and needed an infusion of air to the inside branches to increase airflow and maintain plant health. Our solution was to rejuvenate them by doing a severe pruning. Directly after the pruning, the shrubs looked scary enough to strike fear into the heart of the common man… They were scraggly, nubbly, full of sheared off limbs and bare branches. But time heals all wounds. Given a couple of months of growth, the shrubs are back to their leafy, green ideal and healthier than they were last year. All in all, it was a success.

Steeds Holly 2 months later with new growth

Steeds Holly directly after pruning



Timing is important. You want to prune spring flowering shrubs directly after they bloom since they bloom on last season's growth. Whereas shrubs that bud on new growth should be pruned in late winter. For more information on shrub rejuvenation, see Rejuvenating an Old Shrub at http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2011/01/rejuvenating-old-shrub.htmlThanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Summer's Here with a Vengence (Heat and your Landscape)

Look out!  Summer is here with a vengence!  The Charlotte area has had 100 degree record-breaking temperatures recently.  Ice cream sales will skyrocket, pools will be crowded, and air conditioning units will be at full power.  But as we all look for creative ways to keep cool, we thought you should be aware of what this type of heat will do to your landscape. 

1. Fescue turf WILL stress.  This cannot be avoided.  Since fescue is a cool season grass, it's just not made to handle the hot temperatures.  This grass type grows best in the moderate climate of fall and spring.  What can you do to minimize the damage from the heat?  Avoid over-mowing.  Heat stress causes fescue to enter a dormant state, with the hopes that it will perk back up when the soil temperatures decrease.  Mowing too often can break the weakened blades off at the crown instead of cutting the blades cleanly.  This leaves you with a probability that it won't be able to recover come fall.  Since the grass is not growing as quickly, it is best to lengthen the time between mowings.  Some lawns can move to an every other week mowing schedule without issue.  If you have an abundance of weeds in the turf, you may need to mow to cut down the weeds (i.e. crabgrass seed-heads).  If this is the case in your lawn, perhaps you should consider a lawn maintenance program like our 7 Step program to promote healthy turf and limit weed growth.
2. Established shrubs should be able to take the heat unless they are diseased or stressed.  Is it important that newly planted  shrubs or trees get sufficient water.  With our hit and miss rainfall this summer, regular watering will help.  The key is to water less often, but longer to limit runoff and ensure a deep soaking to promote deep root growth.  Shallow watering encourages shallow root growth.  Deep watering encourages deep root growth.  Make sense?
3. Flowers need to be watered.  Different varieties have different needs, so it's best to know the requirements for your specific varieties, but unless you are growing a succulent garden (think cacti), they are going to need water.  It's best to water in the morning hours when the lawn is wet with dew.  The cooler morning temps allow the moisture more time to absorb down to the roots.  Watering done in the hot afternoon may evaporate too quickly.  Watering done at night may increase the likelihood of disease because the plant stays wet for a longer period of time.

Those are the facts, folks.  Our landscapes will struggle through the heat.  Keep an eye on your pets when they are outdoors and check on your elderly neighbors.  The extreme heat will not last forever.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Warm Wet Weather and Fungus in Your Lawn

Closeup of Brown Patch

It has been a wet, warm start to the spring and summer season in the Charlotte region. With recent nightly storms, we wanted to inform you about the earlier than normal turf fungus outbreak. Our technicians have been seeing fungus this week which is several weeks earlier than normal. We want you to be aware. You should inspect your turf to see if it is being affected. Although some lawns won't have turf fungus, many already do. Here is some more information about lawn disease and what to do about it.

For fungus to flourish, you need three components: a disease organism (like a fungus), a host (your turf), and environment (temperature, moisture, and humidity). When these three components are present, brown patch

Brown Patch Fungus in turf

and dollar spot (the two diseases we encounter most) run rampant. Dollar spot is considered a foliar disease while brown patch is both a foliar and root disease. Left untreated, these two turf diseases can do a lot of damage to your lawn.

Disease is most commonly found in thick lawns, where moisture sits on the plant for more than twelve hours without drying out. However, it can still attack your lawn even if you don't have thick turf. If you have shady areas of your lawn that the sun cannot reach to dry out, or if air flow is limited in areas of your lawn, disease will attack quickly. Disease can spread through your lawn in many different ways, including mowers, traffic, and even rain. It can commonly be confused with drought stress in the latter part of the summer.

So how do you go about preventing fungus? Here are some best practices:

• The best time to water your lawn is early in the morning, so that you are finished by 7:00am
• Let your turf dry out between waterings for at least 1 full day. 2 days is better. Your turf only needs watering 2-3 times per week.
• Keep your mower blade sharp
• Treat your lawn with a fungicide

But just like your car, the best maintenance is preventative maintenance.

 

We at AA Tex Lawn want the best for your lawn. We strongly recommend a seasonal fungicide protection and that you receive three applications at 28-30 days apart. The product we apply has a residule date of 28-30 days. If not reapplied after one application fungus can creep back into your lawn, which is why we strongly recommend three applications throughout the summer months. We encourage you to get these applications sooner rather than later. Remember "PREVENTION IS THE BEST MEDICINE".

 

While you can buy products to treat for disease yourself, keep in mind that most of the products that you can buy from a retail store only have a residule for 14 days. That means you would need to apply it every two weeks during disease season.

 

Here's hoping for beautiful, disease free lawns!

 

The AA Tex Lawn Team

What a Difference Mulch Makes!

Check out the before and after pictures from a playground mulch install we did in Huntersville this month. Not only does this playground look better, it is safer for the kids who use it!


Community playground before (mulch washed away over the winter months)



Community playground after mulch is "refreshed"



What a difference mulch makes!  For more information on playground safety, see the blog at:  http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2011/07/playground-mulch-how-safe-are-your.html

Thanks!

The AA Tex Lawn Team



Grasscycling…

No. Grasscycling is not something that would get you arrested. Nor is it the latest fitness craze. It's the term we use in the landscape industry for not bagging your clippings when you mow your lawn. It's a good idea for many reasons. The following info is taken right off the NC State TurfFiles website at:

http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/Turfgrasses/Default.aspx#MC000016

It's good information to keep in mind when you are maintaining your lawn…

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GRASSCYCLING...
an ecologically and financially sound program for your lawn.

Facts About Grass Clippings

• North Carolina state law prohibits disposal of yard wastes, including grass clippings, in landfills.
• Using grass clippings as a nutrient source for your lawn can save time and money and protect the environment.
• Grass clippings don't cause thatch.

The Grasscycling Concept

Leave grass clippings on the lawn! Grass clippings are 75 to 85 percent water and a good source of nutrients. When left on the lawn after mowing they quickly decompose and release nutrients. Through grasscycling, you can supply up to 25 percent of the lawn's yearly fertilizer needs, which means saving money and time. (And it means you do not have to rake and bag for hours.)

By following the management guidelines in this turf calendar and adding grasscycling to your routine, you will no longer need to bag clippings and your lawn will grow at an acceptable rate, retain a green color, ands develop a deeper root system.

For more information on grasscycling, contact your county Cooperative Extension Center.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
There are times when you'll want to bag your clippings. For instance, if the grass is tall and damp when you mow or if it is overly long…. In those conditions, we recommend mowing once without bagging and then after the heavy clippings dry, mowing a second time with the bag to even out the cut and pick up any excessive clumps. But usually grasscycling is the way to go.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Vinca, a Versatile Plant

You know when you drive through a neighborhood and see that house that just stands out from the rest? It's bursting with color and looks like a professional landscaper lives there? It makes you think WHY DOESN'T MY LANDSCAPE LOOK LIKE THAT? Well, most of the time the people in those houses use annual flowers in their landscape beds. The term annual means that they only live for one growing season. Although short lived, annual flowers come in all sorts of colors, textures, and sizes which allow you to put together a really showy landscape! We've done several articles on annuals because we feel they make such a difference to the look of a garden bed. And because you change them out in spring and fall, you can change the look of your yard frequently. This year, we're using more Vinca in our beds.

Here's why we like it: The new and improved varieties of Vinca that we are using tend to be drought tolerant which makes them a good choice for the south. They come in a variety of colors. They look great planted en masse in groupings. Unlike the older varieties which were susceptible to fungus and required deadheading of spent blooms, these new varieties are low maintenance. But even though they don't require much maintenance a well prepared bed and fertilization throughout the growing season will produce the best blooms.

For more information on bed preparation, see this blog from last year: http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2011/05/planting-annual-flower-beds.html

Mixed Vinca (one of our favorites)

Wishing you many blooms!

The AA Tex Lawn Team

PLANET Day of Service… It feels good to give back…

On April 20th, landscapers from across the nation will band together to make our communities a nicer place to live. PLANET, The Professional Landcare Network holds an annual Day of Service on (or near) Earth Day. Members of PLANET are organizing volunteer lawn and landscape projects in communities across the country. We at AA Tex Lawn are proud to be participating again this year in Charlotte, NC. We're going to provide the Lois' Lodge maternity home a free "face-lift".

Lois' Lodge is a non-profit organization whose mission is to help women and families experiencing an unexpected pregnancy. Residential services are provided through a family-style home in Charlotte, NC and non-residential services are provided through the Lois' Lodge Mom Shoppe Program. Families are provided with: counseling and support, education, life preparation skills, and enrichment experiences. If you have children, you know how overwhelming it can be to find out you are pregnant, even if you are have planned for it. People who find themselves surprised with pregnancy can be left with a lot of doubt, questions, and choices to make. That's where Lois' Lodge comes in. They provide the resources and opportunities to guide and prepare these perspective parents for the new world they are entering.

Employees of AA Tex Lawn feel privileged to be able to do something to brighten the surroundings for these people going through such life-changing experiences. We'll be planting flowers, adding pine needles, trimming shrubs, limbing up trees, and hauling off debris. It feels good to be able to give back to an organization that is "doing good".

For more information about:

• The national PLANET Day of Service: planetdayofservice.org
• Lois' Lodge: www.loislodge.org
• AA Tex Lawn: www.aatexlawn.com

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Bermuda Maintenance

We talk a lot about fescue maintenance, but what about bermudagrass? This hardy, native warm season grass grows in the summer months and goes dormant during the winter. There are many positives to a bermudagrass lawn. It is drought tolerant, loves the heat (which will cause fescue to go dormant), and spreads to fill in bare areas. To get the most out of this turf type, a little maintenance goes a long way. Here's the AA Tex Lawn schedule for a great looking, bermudagrass lawn.

• Mid Winter -Solu-cal and spot weed control. Solu-cal helps neutralizing soil pH and allows the grass to intake the nutrients provided.
• Early Spring - Pre-emergent, fertilizer, and weed control to assist the control of late spring, summer (i.e. crabgrass) and broadleaf weeds.
• Mid Spring - Quick release High nitrogen fertilizer and spot weed control.
• Early Summer - Slow release High nitrogen and spot weed control.
• Late Summer - Slow release High nitrogen and spot weed control.
• Mid Fall - Pre-emergent and broadleaf weed control- helps prevent winter annuals (i.e. poa annua).
• Late Fall - Cool season weed control.

With our hard clay soils, it is also important to aerate annually to relieve compaction and to allow all three of the important elements to get to the root zone: water, nutrients, and air. We aerate bermudagrass mid spring before the growing season begins in earnest.

If you live in the Charlotte area (Matthews, Indian Trail, Mooresville, or surrounding areas of North Carolina or the Lancaster, Rock Hill, or Indian Land areas of South Carolina) and want help maintaining your lawn, give us a call. We've got a 7 Step program that can assist with making your turf weed free, well fed, and healthy.

With maintenance and regular fertilization, you'll be amazed at the lawn you can have!

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Mower Maintenance

Spring is here! If you have fescue turf, the mowing season has started. In order to get the best results from your mower this season, it's important to make sure your equipment is in top working order. Here are a few regular maintenance items you should take care of now that won't break the bank, but will protect the investment you made in your mower…
Mower Maintenance:

1. Change the oil. You probably know how important changing the oil is in your car. Well, the same is true of your mower. Changing the oil before the season starts ensures the motor runs smoothly. Usually ¾ - 1 quart of oil will do. Your mower's owner's manual will have the specifics of how, how much and what type and weight of oil you need.
2. Change the spark plug – Nothing is worse than putting on your work clothes and shoes, checking the gas, getting all set to mow your lawn…. And then discovering your mower won't start. Although changing the spark plug every year is not always necessary, it is good preventative maintenance to save you from any unexpected surprises just before you mow. Sort of like changing the batteries in your smoke detector. Better to do it early than late!
3. Clean the air filter – Air filters keep the air that goes into the motor clean. It's essential to the good working of your mower. Since grass is soft, many people don't realize how much dirty air your mower sucks in during a single mowing. When cut grass builds up in your mower deck and starts to decompose it becomes abrasive and dusty. Your air filter is solely responsible for keeping that dirty air out of the engine's system. As with the oil, check your manual for specifics on how to maintain your air filter. There are different types but most can be cleaned multiple times before needing to be replaced. Use your best judgment… If it is really dirty or has damage, replace it. They are fairly insignificant in price, especially compared to the cost of a new lawn mower.
4. 
   Sharpen the blades – Sharpening your mower blades is important not only to your mower's well-being, but for the health of your grass. Dull blades chop the grass instead of cutting it. This is like an open wound and leaves the grass more susceptible to disease and fungus. While most of these tips are easy for the do-it-yourselfer to take care of in the comfort of their own garage, we recommend leaving the sharpening of blades to a professional. They can make sure the mower blades are balanced after sharpening. Unbalanced mower blades will cause your mower to vibrate which can do internal damage to your lawn mower over time. There are many lawn mower or small engine repair services in the Charlotte or Matthews area that can sharpen blades. Just google it or look in the yellow pages to find an applicable service. You can either remove the blade and take it to them or deliver the whole mower. But remember SAFETY FIRST!! ALWAYS undo the spark plug wire before you remove the blades!
   Turning the blades is the same as pulling the pull cord. It can crank the motor. You DO NOT want the motor to unexpectedly start when you have your hands near the blades. It's worth the time to pull the spark plug wire any time you look under the deck of the mower.
5. Lubricate any moving parts. On push mowers, spray the wheels with a spray lubricant to keep them turning smoothly. The leftover grass and dust from last season can really cause the wheels to "gum up". On riding mowers, it's best to take them to a professional for service as there can be hidden grease fittings on pivot points that can go unnoticed by the casual user.
6. Give it a bath! It is recommended that you wash underneath the deck of the mower after every mowing especially if you are mowing damp or wet grass. You want to remove any clingy grass blades from the deck. While most of us don't follow this rule after every mowing, at least start the season off right with a good pressure washing or cleaning. JUST REMEMBER TO DETACH THE SPARK PLUG WIRE FIRST BEFORE WASHING UNDER THE DECK.
7. Set your mower height. We recommend mowing fescue turf at a height of about 3 ½ to 3 3/4 inches. If your mower has markings for blade height those are usually accurate. To manually check your blade height, just measure the distance of the blades from a hard surface.
8. Always use fresh gas.  If gas is more than 90 days old, put that gas in your car to top off a near full tank and get fresh gas for the mower.

At AA Tex Lawn, we are lucky. We have a certified mechanic on staff to manage our equipment and make sure everything is in tip-top working order. At home, preventative maintenance can save you hundreds of dollars in the long run. It's worth it. Or if you are in the Charlotte area of North Carolina, call us at 704-821-0708. We're happy to give you a quote on maintenance.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Myths II: Planting Myths Busted!

In the last blog we talked about common turf myths we hear from customers and why they are false. Fallacies grow in all shapes and sizes. There is an abundance of plant, shrub, and tree myths that exist too. Here are a few and why they are wrong.

One of our most hated: CRAPE MURDER! You see it everywhere… Crape Myrtles that look like a

Crape Murder

deranged serial killer has hacked off their heads. There are several reasons why this is not good for the tree… It forces a mass of thinner branches at the top which makes the crape myrtle look disproportionate. These thinner branches often droop with their heavy blooms. This also stresses the tree which leads to a greater chance of disease and insect damage. MYTH: Pruning the top will promote more blooms. This is not true. At AA Tex Lawn, when pruning these beautiful trees, we leave 3 to 4 large trunks, cut off any suckers that have grown near the base of the trunk, and cut off any cross branches that are rubbing against other branches. The tops we leave alone… yielding a glorious tree with a profusion of blooms in the summer. If the crape myrtle is too large for the space it is in, it needs to be replaced with plant material that "fits" in the spot.

Proper Technique for Pruning Crape Myrtles

I'VE GOT TO GET RID OF THIS CLAY SOIL WHEN I DO MY PLANTINGS IF I WANT MY PLANTS TO GROW. I see where this idea comes from. Clay tends to become compacted which makes it hard for vital nutrients (oxygen and water) to enter the soil. But actually, it's better to amend the native soil (mainly clay in our area) rather than remove it. The clay retains moisture, so by amending the soil, you retain the positive properties of the clay and reduce the negative, mainly compaction. Look to use about a 50/50 ratio of the native soil and enriched organic matter like the soil conditioner you find in your local garden centers or really good composting material. The roots will grow in clay. The amended soil simply helps water and nutrients pass into the soil to the roots.

WILL I HAVE TO WATER MY NEW SHRUBS FOREVER???? For the first couple of years, regular watering is essential to helping to reduce transplant stress and establish a healthy root system. As with turf, deep and infrequent watering is better than frequent, shallow watering. The roots grow where the water is, so if you do a shallow watering, then the roots will be shallow as well. Different shrubs have different needs, so check the directions for your variety of shrub to ensure you are giving enough water. TOO MUCH WATER CAN BE AS DETRIMENTAL AS NOT WATERING ENOUGH. However, established shrubbery typically does not need supplemental watering. So after the first couple of years, unless we're under drought conditions, the shrubs will get all the water they need from Mother Nature, so we can stop watering.

Which brings us to another common issue:

WATERING SHOULD BE LIKE A GENTLE RAINFALL SO THAT THE LEAVES CAN SOAK UP THE WATER… It's actually better to water the root area rather than the leaves. Although the leaves can take up a small amount of water, the majority of nutrients and water are absorbed through the roots. No need for a "gentle rainfall" approach.

A little education to help you beautify your world. Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Turf Myths Busted!

You hear all sorts of things about how to improve your lawn. It can be difficult to separate the good advice from the bad. But you know the old saying… Don't believe everything you hear. We've listed below a few commonly held ideas that we know to be false.

IF I CUT THE GRASS SHORT, I WON'T HAVE TO MOW NEXT WEEK! This is a big NO-NO on several accounts. First of all, you should not cut more than 1/3 of the blade height off at one mowing. Mowing too much at one time stresses the plant and leaves it more susceptible to disease. Secondly, the blades of the grass produce oxygen and make food. Cutting the blades short reduces the plant's ability to provide for itself and establish a healthy root system. Thirdly, taller turf will help to crowd out weeds. If the weeds cannot get the sun and nutrients they need, they cannot grow. You don't want the blades too long, though, as this can stop water and sunlight from reaching the whole surface area of the blade and create runoff. So what's the ideal height? For tall fescue, we mow to around 3 ¾ inches.

I NEED TO WATER EVERYDAY FOR BEST RESULTS. Grass does not need as much water as most people think. During warm weather, as little as 1 inch of water a week is sufficient to keep your turf happy. In fact, watering too often promotes shallow root systems, whereas deep and infrequent watering encourages deep root growth because the water has more time to soak farther into the soil, thereby encouraging the roots to grow deeper. So how much and how often do you need to water to get an inch a week? It's hard to say as different watering methods yield different results. (Irrigation systems may disburse more water than a light shower or manual sprinkler.) An easy, cost effective method to measure your water output is to draw a line on an empty tuna or cat food can at the one inch mark. This will give you a surefire way to know how much water you're getting from your methods. Remember deep and infrequent watering is best. Timing is important too. Ideally, you should water your lawn during the hours when the lawn is wet from dew. If turf stays wet for more than 12 hours in a 24 hour period, you increase the likelihood of fungal disease.

MORE IS BETTER… While this may be true for money and desserts, it is NOT true for your lawn. Applying more than the recommended dosages of fertilizer, weed and feed, pre-emergent, and other chemicals can have the opposite effect to what you expect. RULE TO LIVE BY: Follow the directions on the package. They aren't there for nothing.

THERE ARE BARE SPOTS IN MY FESCUE. I"LL JUST THROW SOME SEED DOWN THIS SPRING WHEN THE WEATHER STARTS TO WARM UP. Stop! This hardly ever works… Fescue is a cool season grass and therefore its optimum growing season is the cooler months. You have to give the roots an opportunity to become established before the hot summer temperatures arrive. Otherwise the new growth is not going to survive the stress created by 90 temperatures. By overseeding in the fall, the roots have months to become established before the hot weather arrives. Another issue that will prevent growth: pre-emergent. Know what it does. Pre-emergent creates a barrier to kill weeds as they germinate (and this will include fescue!) Since pre-emergent is put down in the spring, fescue turf needs to be seeded (or overseeded) in the fall so that the seed has germinated before the pre-emergent is put down.

I'LL SAVE MONEY AND TIME IF I COMBINE MY APPLICATIONS WITH A WEED AND FEED PRODUCT. Actually, the herbicides in weed and feed products can be deadly to new seedlings. Newly planted grass cannot handle the stress of chemicals. It's best to use turf fertilizer to spur growth in your lawn and a pre-emergent to control crabgrass. This is particularly true if your turf was planted last fall. We recommend spot spraying of broadleaf weeds for the best results.

This is just a small sampling of false ideas that we see or hear from clients. Here's hoping a little education goes a long way in helping to establish beautiful, healthy lawns.

Next week… Planting Myths Busted! Happy Growing,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Want Beautiful Knockout Roses in the Spring?

If you want your knockout roses to look like this during the blooming season:

 



Do this now:








 

Pruning is essential and easy for this low-maintenance variety of rose!  Once they are pruned, fertilize them and they are ready to go.


For more information on Knockout Roses and why we like them, check http://aatexlawn.blogspot.com/2011_02_01_archive.html

Happy Pruning!

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Doggone it! What’s wrong with my lawn?

Dogs. Unconditional love in a furry cute package. We love them. But our lawns…. Not so much… Most people know that dog urine is detrimental to your lawn. And there are plenty of myths about how to help the issue. Here's some hardcore truths about what causes the problem and what to do about it.

Early Stages of Dog Urine Burn

Dog urine has high contents of nitrogen. In smaller quantities, nitrogen is actually good for the turf. It helps to "green up" the grass. Dogs are creatures of habit, though. They tend to go in the same area day after day, thereby providing more nitrogen than the grass can tolerate. It burns the grass and creates those unsightly brown spots in your lawn. Some think that female urine is actually more acidic, but that's not true. This myth stems from the fact that whereas male dogs typically lift their legs to mark territory on something like a tree, shrub, or the ever-present fire hydrant in short bursts, females squat and make larger puddles, thereby providing more nitrogen in a concentrated area. Added to the fact that dogs mark over each other's scent (does your dog ever urinate directly on top of another dog's urine?) that can add up to a lot of "fertilizer" for your lawn.

Continued Damage

What do we do about it? Old wives tales abound about how to save your grass. Some think that changing the dog's diet will help. Heck, they even make doggie diapers now. But short of putting Pampers on your puppy, the only ways to truly stop damage over time is to water the area directly after your dog urinates to dilute the nitrogen OR to train your dog to go in an appropriate specified area of your yard. I don't know about you, but the idea of watering every time my dog goes sounds like too much work to me. So the best solution is to allocate space for the dog to go. This could be a natural area or pine needled area (which also helps with #2 removal). Training takes consistency and perseverance but with continued effort, eventually your dog will get it. Be careful of shrubs and trees in the area, though. They are susceptible to damage from too much nitrogen just like your grass.

So what's the answer? Short of getting rid of our furry friends, we say LONG LIVE THE DOG RUN.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team

Feed Your Trees!

We all want tremendous growth and health from the trees and shrubs in our landscapes. And now is the time to make sure your trees have the nutrients they need for a good growing season. Fertilizer provides nutrients needed to boost plant, shrub, and tree growth. There are several ways to go about fertilizing your trees and shrubs. There are granular surface fertilizers as well as liquid fertilizers. At AA Tex Lawn, we prefer to push liquid fertilizer into the soil around the drip line of the tree. This is known as deep root feeding.

Deep root feeding is a process by which we inject fertilizer directly into the ground at the root zone of the tree or shrub using a root feeder tool attached to a spray hose. It not only puts the product at the root zone (where it is most effective) but also aerifies the soil and stimulates root growth. With the hard clay soil that we have in the piedmont section of North Carolina, absorption of granular fertilizers into the root system of the tree can sometimes be hindered by compaction of the soil… particularly in times of drought or reduced rainfall. This is where deep root feeding comes in. The fertilizer is released directly into the root zone. In addition, the holes left from deep root feeding allow additional water to reach the roots of the tree or shrub. The benefits to the tree are numerous.

Deep root feeding is a standard process for tree care, but we have adopted it to use on ornamental trees and shrubs, too.

No matter whether you prefer to use a granular or liquid fertilizer, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions. Applying too much fertilizer can be harmful for your trees whereas applying too little is ineffectual. Or just let a professional handle it for you. Contact our office if you have any questions or if you'd like us to help you with the process. We should begin our deep root feeding in the late January/February timeframe.

Thanks,

The AA Tex Lawn Team